When compiling a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred names. Yet, nestled prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung area of north London.
This little Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. This honour has left the family utterly surprised.
“I’m utterly astonished,” states a family member, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that led to their small restaurant securing such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.
This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has retained much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.
However, it’s all about the cuisine, and this eatery certainly excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent quality.
It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.
It is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.
Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.
When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, toastier and more balanced flavour.
Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.
Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.
It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.
“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”
The view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.
Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.
A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.
“Our mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.
This restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo outside its own walls. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this culinary triumph.
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